Utopías de Madrid, por Andrés Ibáñez

Madrid ha sido la ciudad invitada a la Feria del Libro de Guadalajara, y en nuestro número Eñe 52 Ganarás la luz hemos querido rendirle homenaje. Por ello, reunimos a casi medio centenar de escritores para hacer con ellos, a través de sus recuerdos, un diario de la ciudad de Madrid a lo largo de más de cincuenta años.  Es un placer para nosotros hacerte accesible este contenido de la revista -la lectura de Madrid que hace el escritor Andrés Ibáñez- a través de nuestra web. ¡Esperamos que lo disfrutes! 

 

 

Hace un par de siglos, la gran avenida que surca Madrid de norte a sur era un riachuelo. Todos los madrileños hemos tenido el sueño alguna vez de que un gran río amazónico cruzaba nuestra ciudad, aunque pocos son los que saben que este río, en una versión humilde, fue una realidad una vez. Era un arroyo apenas, que dejaba a ambos lados verdes praderas, o al menos un prado en suave pendiente que ascendía hasta una eminencia. Las cosas desaparecen, pero los nombres quedan, y ese antiguo Prado aún perdura en el Museo del mismo nombre (alojado en un edificio que fue pensado en un principio como laboratorio de ciencias), corazón de una de las primeras utopías madrileñas. A veces nos olvidamos de que las utopías clásicas, la de Moro, la de Campanella, la de Bacon, son siempre ciudades —por la simple razón de que todas las ciudades son utopías.

En dirección al norte, más allá de las florestas urbanas de los bulevares y de las fuentes mitológicas dedicadas a Neptuno, a Orfeo y a Cibeles, la ciudad desaparecía y regresaba la naturaleza. Y allí, en lo que todavía era un valle flanqueado de colinas, había en el siglo xix una fuente conocida como «la Castellana» donde iban a beber los burros de los aguadores. La gran avenida fue avanzando hasta borrar el valle, el arroyo y la fuente. Las cosas desaparecen, pero los nombres quedan, y aunque al nuevo paseo se le puso el nombre de una reina, el pueblo de Madrid siguió llamándolo siempre «Paseo de la Castellana» en recuerdo de la antigua fuente.

Se construyó por esa zona un hipódromo. Era casi el campo, prácticamente las afueras. Y había al lado del hipódromo una colina que estaba por aquel entonces cubierta de un espeso bosque de pinos, ya que Madrid es una ciudad de colinas exactamente igual que Roma. Aquella colina carecía de nombre, y era conocida simplemente como «los altos del hipódromo». Aunque los pinos madrileños nunca han alcanzado las alturas hiperbólicas de los romanos, quizá porque en Roma llueve sin cesar y en Madrid no llueve nunca, era un lugar muy agradable, y por su ladera caía  un arroyo y corrían los conejos. Emilio Carrere situó allí la «Torre de los Siete Jorobados» en su novela del mismo título, aunque se trataba de una torre invertida, una construcción subterránea que se hundía en círculos concéntricos por debajo de la tierra. Y con el tiempo el hipódromo desapareció y los pinos desaparecieron también. Las cosas desaparecen, pero los nombres quedan, y aquella eminencia siguió siendo conocida como «los altos del hipódromo» aunque ya no había hipódromo, y la calle que subía hasta allí se llamó «calle Pinar» aunque ya no había pinar.

Y poco a poco apareció en lo alto de la colina una nueva utopía, una especie de Acrópolis laica dedicada a la investigación, la educación y la sabiduría, y se construyeron allí el Museo de Ciencias Naturales, la Residencia de Estudiantes (uno de los primeros ejemplos de arquitectura moderna de España), el Archivo Histórico Nacional, el Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas y el Instituto-Escuela. Juan Ramón Jiménez se puso a vivir en la Residencia y consideró que no era apropiado que una colina tan hermosa no tuviera nombre, y la llamó «la Colina de los Chopos», porque todavía hoy en día hay abundantes chopos por allí, y abedules, y eucaliptus, y pinos, y magueyes, y lirios morados, y también un cedro del Líbano gigante en la ladera, un poco más abajo del Museo de Ciencias Naturales.

Eran los años felices de la República. En los terrenos del hipódromo, al otro lado del Paseo de la Castellana, se construyeron los Nuevos Ministerios, otro ejemplo de falansterio utópico, que propone una ciudad en miniatura que rodea un parque salpicado de estanques. Y más tarde, en los setenta, un poco más al norte, otro falansterio utópico: AZCA, el sueño de una ciudad hipermoderna que fuera arquitectura de vanguardia y jardín en la superficie y que relegara el tráfico rodado a un laberinto de autopistas subterráneas, y en cuyo centro, donde hoy hay un parque y una fuente, se pensó poner un Teatro de Ópera.

Este escenario de utopías y falansterios, de colinas arcádicas y ciudades ideales, es el de mi infancia y mi adolescencia. El Instituto-Escuela se transformó en el Instituto Ramiro de Maeztu, en el que yo estudié desde los seis hasta los dieciocho años, que creció por la cima de la colina e invadió algunos de los edificios de la Residencia de Estudiantes, especialmente el «Pabellón Trasatlántico», así llamado por la simple razón de que su perfil recordaba al de un trasatlántico, un gran paquebote incrustado en lo alto de la Colina de los Chopos. Claro que ahora se llamaba Pabellón Hispano-marroquí, del mismo modo que la Castellana se llamaba Avenida del Generalísimo, sombra de otro tipo de utopía, la utopía fascista. Y allí estábamos nosotros, estudiando BUP y COU en los mismos pasillos donde vivieron Lorca y Dalí, Alberti y Juan Ramón. No lo sabíamos entonces, porque el franquismo no quería recordar los años de la Repú- blica, y no había en aquellos edificios ni una pobre lápida que recordara a la Generación del 27 y la Edad de Plata. Pero un día lo descubrimos. Solo que en aquel caso las cosas habían desaparecido pero no habían quedado nombres ni palabras para recordarlas. Y en el lugar donde Lorca tocaba el piano y Buñuel contaba chistes verdes y Altolaguirre editaba revistas y Alberti ensayaba su «pedómetro» y Jean Gebser traducía a Hölderlin para que lo leyera Cernuda, ahora estábamos nosotros, solo nosotros. Pero las palabras siempre vuelven, siempre regresan, y los nombres de antaño reaparecieron de nuevo. ¿Será esa la razón de que escribamos, porque sabemos que nosotros desapareceremos pero tenemos la esperanza de que nuestras palabras no desaparezcan?

 

Fotografía: Javier Campano

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“Utopías de Madrid, por Andrés Ibáñez”
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