Piedra agarrotada, por Juan Bautista Durán

 

‹‹Pueblo de piedras tensas: el campo/ lo sostiene alto en su palma/ de olivares benignos.›› Así retrató José Donoso en su diario de invierno el pueblo turolense de Calaceite, donde a primeros de los setenta compró y rehabilitó una casa del núcleo antiguo. Un bello lugar, cruce de calles empinadas y hiedra trepada a la piedra, por donde su paisano Jorge Edwards lo recuerda andando, ‹‹subiendo escalones de piedra, saludándose con algún campesino de boina y alpargatas, con alguna mujer de cara huesuda, de expresión terca››. Pero hoy día ¿alguien lo recuerda a Donoso allí?

Situado entre los ríos Matarraña y Algars, en los cerros de San Antonio, San Cristóbal y del Castillo, Calaceite dispone de una gran extensión de terreno dedicada a la agricultura, tanto en lo que se refiere a la ganadería como al cultivo. Por una parte, destacan las granjas porcinas, y por otra, los olivares y los viñedos. Desde lo alto del pueblo se divisan las grandes extensiones de olivos, y al mismo tiempo, desde lo más profundo de la piedra, brota una cultura que se encuentra a sí misma con el descubrimiento del calaceitano Juan Cabré (1882–1947) de los poblados íberos en uno de los cerros, hoy documentado en el museo que lleva su nombre; en los propios edificios que forman el casco antiguo; en la afluencia de escritores y pintores a lo largo de la segunda mitad del siglo xx.

José Donoso es quizá el más notorio de ellos, pero no el único, ni mucho menos, ni él ni las amistades que como Jorge Edwards pudieron llegarse al pueblo. El boom latinoamericano tenía allí un punto de encuentro del mismo modo que la gauche divine se citaba en Cadaqués. Vargas Llosa y García Márquez iban a menudo a la casa de Donoso, y también Carlos Fuentes, en alguna ocasión, así como otros autores de menor renombre que decidieron incluso establecerse en Calaceite. El chileno Mauricio Wácquez y su pareja, Francesc Cardona, por ejemplo, el pintor Albert Ráfols Casamada, el argentino Alberto Cousté o el italiano Giorgio Della Rocca, entre otros. La tranquilidad y belleza natural del pueblo, si tan manida expresión sirve, hacían las veces de acicate para que personajes de este calado se sintieran atraídos.

La matanza del cerdo o el cultivo de la tierra es tanto o más cultural que las mejores páginas de estos autores, y así lo manifestó Donoso en su monumental Casa de campo, premio de la Crítica en 1979, donde el campo y las labores propias de los campesinos obran un elemento importante, antes y después de que la marquesa saliera a las cinco. Un reto surrealista, pero fiel a la realidad que nos da de comer. La influencia de Calaceite fue determinante a la hora de concebir la novela, de eso no cabe ninguna duda, pero hoy día ¿quién se acuerda de Donoso?

Hay una pequeña librería, Arts&Més, emparentada con la Fundación Noesis, antigua residencia de pintores, donde sin embargo escasea la obra de los autores aquí citados. Apenas un par de libros del poeta castellano Ángel Crespo, otro ilustre residente, aunque no de forma fija. A Crespo le dedicaron en años recientes una exposición de corte pictórico en el Museo Juan Cabré, con carteles de simposios en los que participó y obras de amigos, tales como Guinovart o Pere Jaume. ‹‹Para llevar siempre conmigo —dedicó Crespo a Calaceite—/ tu recuerdo, yo pondría/ entre las páginas de un libro/ unas hojas de olivo y una flor/ de almendro: así uniría/ tu historia y tu presente/ lo recio con lo grácil, el color/ verde, ya ennoblecido/ con el alba reciente/ rica de un rosa desvaído.›› En el museo hay también un espacio dedicado a Teresa Jassá, ceramista calaceitana (1928–1999) con una obra en clara sintonía con la colección arqueológica de Juan Cabré y con el propio edificio donde se halla el museo, una antigua casa de piedra rehabilitada.

Los actos culturales se reparten entre el museo y la Fundación Noesis, conjunto de tres edificios unidos en lo alto del cerro a modo de taller y residencia de pintores, en la actualidad vacío. El auge de los artistas en Calaceite perdió peso en las últimas décadas, pese al esfuerzo de la municipalidad en mantener vivo este patrimonio y a pequeñas iniciativas como la librería, cafetería y sala de exposiciones Arts&Més, que este verano cuenta con una exposición fotográfica del cineasta aragonés Carlos Saura.

‹‹Puño de piedra agarrotado en la colina››, escribió Donoso. El único recuerdo visible del novelista en Calaceite está muy cerca de la librería, entre Arts&Més y la Fundación, en una plazoleta llamada “de los artistas”. La presiden unos versos de Crespo en un libro de piedra —‹‹Tanto acaricié las piedras/ que se hicieron arboleda./ Donde hubo dureza había/ pájaros y verde hierba./ Donde antes el polvo, agua;/ donde los silencios, trinos./ Donde tropecé en las piedras/ halló mi voz su camino››— y una placa de la Embajada de Chile junto a la escultura Libro Imbunche en recuerdo de Mauricio Wácquez y José Donoso. A la vuelta de la esquina está la que fuera su casa, en un cruce de calles deshabitado donde cuesta encontrar el rastro del novelista chileno, sólo en las alturas, enfrentándose con la población de sus páginas, tal como dejó escrito, ‹‹encerrado contento en mi alto estudio desde el que se ve la torre churrigueresca de la iglesia y los tejados que caen colina abajo››.

 

Foto: ©Elisa Cabot (Todos los Creative Commons)

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“Piedra agarrotada, por Juan Bautista Durán”
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  • All of us have observed accounts about holidays from hell, where everything moved completely wrong. Usually, these complaints arise when folks do not get ready sufficiently for their getaways. Stick to the suggestions described on this page so you should certainly plan an incredible vacation. Purchase international airport bring-on sized toiletries when flying to your following journey destination. Store them in zip fasten bags within your luggage and you won’t need to worry about security confiscating them. When flying, make sure you put on loosened fitted clothing and fall-on shoes. This will ensure that your airline flight is comfy. Aside from that, it won’t acquire for as long to get by means of security provided you can swiftly consider your boots off and on. Free apparel will allow for just about any short term irritation that you might experience because of atmosphere tension from the plane’s cabin. Just before going on your getaway, be sure to use the web to check out the wide variety of vacation message boards available. These is located enable travellers to answer other user’s questions regarding different places. They may supply an abundance of facts about restaurants, hotels and attractions. When traveling, you should be sure you load only what exactly you need. This rule is most suitable to outings by atmosphere, as suitcases fees are much higher now compared to what they formerly were actually. Most airport terminals will offer anything you will possibly not have space for and main around places should too. Bundle trips are a method to get the most from a restricted vacation budget. Examine the possibilities available at a particular destination. It can be possible to do far more, see much more and also have more fulfilling, by purchasing a bundle offer that includes additional solutions and services. These bundles commonly supply savings that happen to be impossible to reproduce by way of acquiring specific services. Be flexible when making your traveling strategies. Unless there is certainly some purpose you have to travel with a certain time, versatility could save you money. Allowing a arranging web site to locate journeys around your desired traveling dates could help you save up to a hundred money per trip, particularly if it shifts you off of a few days air travel. Just before booking any holidays, perform some price comparisons. Make certain you’re receiving a great deal on the flight and accommodation by studying the rates of countless sites. In the event you don’t need to keep or come back from your trip on an specific day time, examine the buying price of a few days inside the very same week. A single might be less costly. Given that you’ve acquired several of the basic principles on travelling, inform your manager you are taking a holiday, buy your aeroplane admission, motorboat admission or whichever indicates you plan on consuming and go! Remember to always be secure regardless of whether traveling by itself or otherwise not. Require instructions and support should you need it. The majority of people will never chew. Most importantly, Like anything else, the field of touring is large and has a lot information readily available. Sometimes, you just need just a little tip regarding where to start with it to help you start off your own personal practical experience. With a little luck, you acquired that in the above ideas.

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